dog training

The Old Dog


My Lacy is 16½ now. ’Tis a good age!

And, she’s very well.

  • She still loves her walks

  • She still loves her bed

  • And she definitely still loves her grub!

I want to share with you some of the things I have learned about keeping my old dogs fit and happy for as long as possible.

Walks for the older dog

You play this completely by ear - there’s no hard and fast rule. But I know that if we walk for more than about 45 minutes, Lacy is lagging behind on the way home.

Accordingly, most of our walks are shorter than that. Half an hour’s happy snuffling off-lead on a path she’s familiar with works wonders. And when she’s paused to inspect a particularly interesting scent, she’ll happily trot - or even run - to catch up with me.

And as you can see here, her BARKING is untroubled by 16½ years of heavy use, and she still enjoys racing about!

 
 


Sleep for the older dog

Older dogs sleep a lot. So all I need to do here is ensure she has a choice of comfy beds, and hard floors when that’s what she wants. She usually starts the night crashing onto the hard floor. But she’s almost always on her comfy bed when I wake in the morning.

Stimulation for the older dog

This is super-important! They can’t do crossword puzzles or all the things they tell old people to do to keep sane. But as long as you’re feeding a natural diet - processed foods and ready meals are as bad for dogs as they are for us! And in the case of humans have positively been connected to brain ageing - then that will give them a puzzle to solve daily.

Mine get a lot of raw chicken carcases, and chomping through those takes application.

Yannick frequently presses his PUZZLE button, so I make puzzles for them all.

🐶 Sometimes these are lickimats with paté spread on them.

🐶 Sometimes they’re feeders like kongs.

🐶 And more often I wrap treats in screws of paper, and stuff them into cardboard boxes or packets for them to rip and shred and munch. They love these “puzzles”!

Yes, there are a lot of cardboard and paper shreds to clear up before bed, but - so what? It keeps them very happy for quarter of an hour.

Old dog health

Like my previous old dogs, Lacy’s hearing has almost gone. I stamp on the floor to rouse her in the evening before bedtime, rather than spook her by touching her. Sometimes she can hear a high-pitched whistle, but banging on a door or cupboard will often penetrate her silent world.

I’m so sorry that she can no longer hear me chattering to her. I wonder if she thinks I’ve given up on that? So I make a point to talk animatedly to her when she’s right in front of me. The connection is strong, and must be maintained!

She doesn’t wear the “Deaf Dog” vest I had for Rollo. She tends to walk just behind me, while Rollo was always out front. So Lacy doesn’t need it.

Old dog grooming

Just because she’s old with failing hearing and eyesight, doesn’t mean that her coat stops growing! It has changed a bit, becoming longer and wispier, so it needs careful brushing. Lacy’s always had a dense coat, looking like a black bear, and it’s still just as dense. Trousers need attention for mats or very occasional stains.

She has various small lumps and bumps here and there on her head and body, but nothing that needs veterinary intervention. It would have to be deadly serious for me to risk an anaesthetic for her! But to me she is still just as beautiful as ever.

I’ve always kept claws well-trimmed, and I clip the hair between the pads. I also have mats at strategic corners in the house, to prevent slipping.

But I’ve found one great addition - sticky socks for dogs! I put these on Lacy’s back feet and since I’ve been using them (about four months now) she hasn’t once slid her back feet apart and flumped to the floor (distressing for both of us). So I reckon they’re a great success.

You do need to keep the middle two claws well-trimmed and filed though, or you’ll spend a lot of time darning your dog’s socks! I use a grinder for best, quickest - and most pain-free - results.

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A peaceful old age for my dog

Lacy was a bit quiet the other day. I began to be concerned. But three things worked splendidly well to reassure me:

1. I opened the fridge door. (She may be deaf, but some things she just knows ..)

2. I tossed her a mini pork pie (caught, chomped, and swallowed in one).

3. I took the frisbees to the garden to play with the younger two. (Much woofing and dancing about.)

She was fine!

The old dog can still learn

Lacy still enjoys going through her repertoire of tricks, though I’m careful which ones I ask of her. When she’d had a stroke (she’s had three now, over the last five years) I wouldn’t ask her to spin, as she’d simply have fallen over!

When the others are racing for frisbees, I toss her one right in front of her nose. Sometimes she can catch it, and is very happy.

Perhaps what I’m saying is that you can keep including your old dog in everything you’ve always done together, though some things will have to be adapted. An agility dog, for instance, may be happy just to be asked to go round a pole. And sniffer dogs can always sniff. That sense seems to stay strong for ever …

RESOURCES:

The Old Dog: 5 secrets for keeping him young

Old dogs are the best!

Celebrate your Dog while you still have her

My blog is reader-supported. When you buy through links on this site, I may earn an affiliate commission - but you’ll get the best deal!

To learn more about how I manage my multi-dog household, old and young alike, go to https://my.brilliantfamilydog.com

 
 
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Take it easy with your dog

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Fools rush in where angels fear to tread - Alexander Pope

That is so true when it comes to dog training! 

We get an idea of what we want our dog to do - respond as we’d like to a knock on the door, manage fireworks calmly, walk beside us on a loose lead … whatever it is, we say, “That’s what I’ll teach today!”

Come the end of the day - a frustrating day, to be sure - and you say, “I tried that and it didn’t work.”

Imagine your three-year-old attempting a PhD dissertation! 

We can’t develop new behaviours in a day … why should our dog? 

Slow and steady for your dog

Slow and steady wins the race - Aesop’s Fables

Leads on, now we wait patiently at the door

That’s another saying we can call to mind. 

The tortoise used craft and guile to beat the fast, agile, hare.

Let’s look at the sort of craft and guile we can employ when training our dogs! And I’ll use one example, and break it down.




Calm when the doorbell rings

The mad, barking, leaping, response to a knock on the door may be an entrenched behaviour by now. In that case, all the more reason to teach slowly, step-by-step, what it is you’d like your dog to do instead.

You see, dogs can’t not-do. They have to do. 

He can’t freeze mid-air and wait silently for you to go to the door.

You have to teach him what you’d like instead.

Let’s say you want him to lie down, quietly, on his bed.

So you’ll start, when no-one is around, just sending him to his bed and rewarding him.

Next you’ll add a little duration, so he relaxes into the bed, rather than staying on his toes, ready to leap.

Once this is established, you can start randomly sending him to his bed at any time, from any place in the house. Take this s-l-o-w-l-y. First succeed in sending him from one place, then another in the same room, and so on. 

You’ve taught the ‘down on your bed’ and now you’re consolidating. You can take a long time on this stage. 

Once your dog is happy to play this game with you at any time, you can stand by the front door and send him. Once ready, the next step is to knock on the door and send him, go outside and knock from the other side of the door, and so on. Always reward heavily for each correct response. 

If you have a doorbell, you can play around with a remote doorbell and move quite quickly forward. 

Finally, you can take it a step further. Ideally with a friend who will come and knock on the door, knowing he’ll never be let in. It may take quite a while to get your dog calmly onto his bed, and it’s crucial to solidify this. 

For my dogs, it’s the clank of the gate latch that sets them off. So your stooge person will need to start out at the gate!

What you want your dog to do is the variable here. 

Maybe you’d like him to accompany you to the door. In that case, have him come to you to clip on his lead, and first work through the door manners system in this post and video: Does your dog crash the door??

Once you’ve taught this, you are guaranteed sanity every time you touch any door handle, anywhere. 

Don’t forget, if your dog’s favourite reward is a quick game with a toy, be sure to check out the super, long-lasting toys here and don’t miss out on your special discount! 

It takes time to shape your dog’s behaviour

So you can see, it takes time. It’s not something you can change in an afternoon.

And also, you have to break it down into steps. Most things we want our dog to do are a series of steps.

A recall needs response to the call (maybe away from something as intoxicating as a bunny chase), a smart return, at least a pause when he arrives with you - possibly a sit. This requires teaching the several steps separately.

Walking nicely on lead needs the dog to know exactly where you want him to be when on lead, then to keep that position regardless of your speed or direction. This takes time! Especially with a dog who naturally wants to charge ahead, nose down. 

Getting your dog relaxed during firework season. This needs Desensitisation and Counterconditioning, as you’re working against fear. He isn’t deciding to get in a state, it’s not a voluntary action. So take your time, take it as slowly as you can - then a bit more slowly. 

Read: Counterconditioning doggy fears!

Want more dog training tips? 

Head over to my.brilliantfamilydog.com and look for the Search box at the top of the page. Here’s an example of what you’ll find:

 
 

This is an amazing resource. See all the results it brought up, over on the left?

Whenever you find yourself thinking, “What would Beverley do now?” this is where you’ll find out. 

It will search all my books, courses, blog articles, and community answers. 

Bob’s your uncle! 

The tech is ultra-fast. But for us hoomans and our dogs, sometimes it’s better to be the tortoise than the hare.

RESOURCES: 

Find quick answers by searching everything I’ve written here: 

https://my.brilliantfamilydog.com/search






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Your dog is an individual!

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There is more variation between individuals than between breeds.

Yes, it’s one of my favourite sayings.

And I can’t say it often enough. 

Yes, it’s true that spaniels are in general more like each other than like say, huskies, or whippets. But you can find plenty of spaniels who don’t like hunting, huskies who are couch-potatoes, and whippets who can’t run for toffee. 

The thing is, that humans and dogs are very similar in this respect. 

Take your own family! I’m sure you’ll find there are siblings who had the same parents, the same upbringing, the same food, the same school … and yet who are totally different in many ways. 

It’s one of the joys - and challenges - of parenthood, to find what works for each individual child. Lumping them all together will come to grief, sooner or later. 

Same with dogs!

And it’s just the same with dogs. Just because they happen to be the same breed as your previous dog doesn’t mean they’ll be a carbon copy (copy/paste, or duplicate, for younger readers!). 

Even pups from the same litter show huge divergence in character from very early on. 

Sarah Whitehead says: Behavioural scientists have been measuring these early differences for decades. Even at just eight weeks of age, puppies in a single litter vary in confidence, sociability, curiosity, activity levels and their responses to unfamiliar situations. (Wilsson & Sundgren, 1998; Fratkin et al., 2013).

Further, in a more recent study (Barnard et al, 2017) it was found that 

“the effect of litter emerges as playing a stronger role than breed in modulating puppies’ behaviours … The large variability both within and across breeds found here, mirrors results with adult dogs.”

“The large within-breed variability found among a generic sample of breeders, highlights the importance of shifting the attention of future dog owners from just ‘breed selection’ to a more careful assessment of the pups’ characteristics. Relinquishment of dogs to shelters may be linked to failed expectations, which could be fuelled by an inadequate/misleading view of a specific breed. Hence, increasing public awareness of the importance of visiting the breeder, asking about breeding strategies, seeing the parents of the litter and assessing individual behavioural differences among littermates are key steps to engender informed buyers.”

Now, where have you heard all that before?? ;-)

See the resources below for clues. 

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Take a new look at your dog!

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I consider feeding one of the most important things for my dogs’ long-term health and longevity. 

So I review their diets frequently.

Back in the day, I always used to feed my dogs once a day, in the evening. But they also had training treats, plates to lick, bones left lying around, the occasional foodtoy, and so on. 

Then when I started taking them on camping trips and we walked so much,

I’d scatterfeed kibble in the grass beside the van for them to snuffle up in the morning, while I got washed and dressed.

Then I started to scatterfeed outside at lunchtime, at home.

This was largely to get Cricket the Whippet out to do her business - I didn’t like her to stay in an armchair for hours and hold it! 

Portrait in coloured pencil by Beverley Courtney

So then, one year, Cricket started to get panic attacks.

She’d be shaking, panting, gasping, her eyes on stalks, desperate to get on my lap … These epidosdes could last for an hour, and they were getting more frequent … 😳

I did a little detective work 🕵🏻‍♀️ - and realised that these attacks happened only in the morning!

Aha! 

So I started to give Cricket a handful of food first thing in the morning.

Immediately, the panic attacks stopped, and we never had another.

What a simple solution!

How can I adapt this discovery to my dog management?

The moral of this story?

We change.

Our dogs change.

We need to observe and adapt.

And not just always do the same as we’ve always done, or what’s always worked for previous dogs. 

“Every dog is a study of one.” - Grisha Stewart

Just as we’re all different, so our dogs are all different. 


For our special dogs …

And it got me thinking about how we could be seeing things in our reactive dogs that could easily be changed by attending to diet and timing.

Along with all the other considerations, of course, such as sleep (you know how I’m always harping on about sleep!), exercise - type and quantity, mental stimulation, and all the rest. 

When did you last look closely at what may have become a comfy habit in caring for your dog? 

It’s so easy to drift along, saying, “This is how it’s always been,” and not noticing that things are changing - for the worse.

It’s like when someone sees your children for the first time in ages and says, “How they’ve grown!”. 

Well, duh, of course they’ve grown! But being with them every day, we don’t notice things that are changing. (And I don’t just mean that their jumpers are too tight.) We change all the time .. all the time.

Experiment with your dog!

So it’s time to start experimenting! Look critically at your daily doings with your dog - especially your reactive dog.

🐶 Would it help to move his walk from the morning to the afternoon?

🐶 Would it be better if he only had walks 3-4 days a week, and another stimulating activity on the other days?

🐶 Should I change his feed, or his feeding schedule (always make dietary changes gradually).

🐶 Should he have more interaction with people and dogs, or less? 

🐶 What new thing can I teach him, to liven up our training sessions? 

🐶 How much deep sleep is he having? (If less than 17 hours deep sleep a day, you need to make changes!)

Our dogs are in our hands. We owe it to them to make their lives the best they can be.

Find out what works for you and YOUR dog!

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Easy dogs vs reactive dogs

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You read a lot about reactive dogs these days.

“But my dog isn’t reactive!” you cry.

“My dog is friendly and easygoing!”

That’s wonderful - and I can tell you that many owners of reactive - shy, anxious, fearful, “aggressive” - dogs envy you!

But do spare a thought for them.

Their dog isn’t trying to be difficult - more often than not, he’s simply afraid. And keeping the thing he fears away from him is all he feels he can do (assuming he’s on-lead and can’t bolt).

As the saying goes, “Their dog is not giving them a hard time, he’s having a hard time.”

Keep in mind that this dog may be wonderful at home, where he feels safe, and is most likely much loved. The owner will probably feel very protective towards him.

A nasty experience

Recently I saw a dog approaching that I knew was going to bark at mine. So I moved my super-sensitive reactive dog off the footpath ten yards into the plough. Yes, her dog did kick off, and mine went ballistic in response!

So did she hurry by?

Not a bit of it!

She decided to stand on the path and harangue me - “Your dog’s this .. your dog’s that ..” she screamed, and as I turned and moved away up the path, she actually followed me, still screaming.

Madness, you’d think?

Perhaps she was trying to cover up the fact that it was her dog that started it!

This is no time for abuse, or withering looks. Both the reactive dog and his handler are having a hard enough time already.

They already feel bad, without someone else loading shame on them.

So what can you do to help these dogs?

Having had no experience of managing a reactive dog, you probably don’t know how best to deal with the situation when you come across one.

So here’s a quick tip for you.

If you are approaching a dog - any dog - who is on lead, put your dog on lead too.

This levels the playing field, and shows the worried owner that you’re willing to help.

If left loose, your friendly dog may bowl up to this reactive dog, all waving tail and lolling tongue, and give him the fright of his life!

This isn’t a pleasant experience for your dog either, when his friendly advances are met with teeth, ferocious barking, and leaping around.

What else can you do?

If you can change your route, cross the road, or move over to another part of the field, this is really helpful. You will be rewarded with a beaming smile from a relieved handler.

Sometimes this isn’t possible, like if you’re on a footpath with hedges either side. While the reactive dog owner will do their best to get their dog off the path and stand between them and you, it can be difficult to avoid passing.

Pass as quickly as possible, keeping your dog on the far side of you.

 

Stopping to talk, commiserate, stare at the frightened dog, perhaps stop your dog to tell him not to bark - this all lengthens the time the reactive dog feels at risk.

Remember, ninety-nine times out of a hundred, this dog is not nasty - he’s just afraid!

So speed past, with just a quick hello as you whoosh by.

It’s not that the other owner is unfriendly, or doesn’t want to talk to anyone … it’s just that they can’t! Their whole focus is on keeping their dog calm.

It’s no fun hanging on to the lead with a bucking bronco swinging about on the end of it, snarling and barking - while trying to stay upright!

By keeping your dog - however delightful and friendly! - out of their way, you are genuinely helping them.

I’m sure you are not like the person in the story above. You wouldn’t be here at Brilliant Family Dog reading this if you were.

By the way, if the other dog is muzzled, it doesn’t necessarily mean he’s dangerous - there are a lot of reasons for muzzling a dog. But the muzzle means that this is actually a safer dog - as all his weaponry is behind a grille!

Dogs … and life

It’s true about everything in life - we need to keep an open mind, learn continually, and see things from the other chap’s point of view.

How many tussles, battles, even wars, would not happen if we could just follow that?

Meanwhile, for a bit of help in perfecting your own, easy, dog, watch our free Workshop here!

 
 
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Rewarding your dog

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If you’re working with a dog who is so hyper-aware of his surroundings that he can’t spare you any attention when you’re out, take a look at your rewards -

  • what?

And, critically! 

  • how often?

It can be easy to fall into a trap of, “He can’t pay attention to me, let’s not push it.”

When, in fact, “I’m going to make it worth his while to keep checking in with me!” is the far better strategy!

Here’s a surprise ..

You see, your dog has to learn to take treats. 

Really!

It’s taken up to eight months of age before I can get my more anxious pooches to pause long enough to take a treat when we’re out. Keep shovelling them in - even if they don’t appear to notice - because once it becomes an automatic response, you’re away! 

So you need frequent treats - 

  • for every check-in, 

  • for every considered pause

  • for every non-reactive glance at something alarming (dog, person, you-name-it)

  • and for every 30 seconds

This will increase his attention to you, and his ability to detach from what is alarming him.

Whatever your dog finds rewarding - that’s what you do.

Zoe is waiting attentively for the next treat to drop into her mouth! Brilliant Family Dog

Zoe is waiting attentively for the next treat to drop into her mouth!

My dogs will now always take treats when we’re out. It took a surprisingly long time to establish this with the reactive ones. 

Toy play when out of the house is out of the question still, for my youngest.

But words and touch also rate fairly highly with him, along with treats.

You want to use anything that makes a connection between you.

Making a change for your reactive dog

If you’re used to trudging solo behind or beside your distracted dog, give this a try - and report back!

Combine it with the “pause before you start” strategy in this post: Slow your anxious dog down!

If your dog is happy to play outside the house - then this can definitely be one of your rewards! Need a super high-value toy? Check out our Dog Toys page



Brilliant Family Dog – force-free dog training with Beverley Courtney

Practical, positive dog training based on 20 years' experience helping thousands of owners and their dogs. Explore 400+ free articles, 9 books and 6 online courses covering puppies, everyday training, recall, lead walking, and reactive and anxious dogs.

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